Hamiltonians react to 'local' food debate

Clare Pearson is knee-deep in starting her new business: a Mexican paleta cart.

For her traditional frozen treat, she believes in using as much produce from the Hamilton and Niagara areas as possible.

"I'm spoiled for choice in any direction," she said, speaking of the abundance of berries and tree-fruit she can buy less than an hour away.

Pearson also plans to clearly label where her ingredients came from: strawberries from a Dundas farm or peaches from Niagara. That would be considered 'local.' But if she used blueberries from St. Jacob's, according to current federal regulations, she'd have to throw her 'local' label out.

New definition

Premier Kathleen Wynne wants to change that, transforming what the word "local" means in food and restaurant marketing.

Related: Local Food Act called 'stepping stone'

The idea of local food has become a popular trend, with more restaurants sourcing from agricultural lands at their doorstep to support nearby farmers and reduce their carbon footprint. The "100 mile diet" has also become a fad, eating only what can be grown within 100 miles of their home. Wynne has proposed new legislation that if passed, will shake up the idea of what 'local' is, by making all of Ontario "local."

A sign at an Alliston, Ont. burger restaurant has Wynne calling on the federal government to change its definition of local food, saying the current rules are "too narrow" and work "contrary to interests of farmers."

Many in Hamilton's food industry agree the current rules are narrow.

Right now, Bistro Burger Joint owner Jay Klausen could be fined by the Canadian Food Inspection Agency up to $50,000 for labeling its beef as "local," even though it is raised and processed approximately 200 kilometres away from the restaurant.

Conflicting ideas

The CFIA states "local," "locally grown," and any similar term mean that the domestic goods being advertised originated within 50 km of the place where they are sold, measured directly, point to point."

A month ago, the Ontario Liberal government tabled the Local Food Act, which seems to contradict the CFIA's definition. According to that proposed piece of legislation "local food" means, "any food produced or harvested in Ontario."

"The CFIA's legislation is designed to regulate the labeling and advertising of food products. However, the scope of their definition may be too narrow and could work contrary to the interests of supporting local food and Ontario farmers," wrote Gabrielle Gallant, a spokesperson for Wynne, who is also Ontario's minister of agriculture.

Klausen was scheduled to meet with the CFIA Friday.

"It's easy for those of us in the southern tip to make the local claim but as a province I think the current restrictions make it hard for those in remote areas," Pearson said.

The CFIA definition came into affect in 1974.

Options

Torrie Warner, owner of Warner's Farms in Beamsville, said the federal definition is "restrictive" and that a "100 mile" concept is more reasonable. But to him, it's also not so cut and dry — the market had changed.

"You can get something around the world pretty easily," he said. "I would think anything product of Ontario would be considered local."

Related: Hamilton pair launches aquaponics farm

For Warner, it's also about having options. Warner is an invited vendor at the Ottawa Farmer's Market that typically only allows local vendors within 100 km of the city. He's only allowed to sell produce that other vendors don't produce, like peaches, plums, cherries and certain varieties of grapes.

"I'm not a 'local' producer, but I'm still bringing Ontario product grown on my farm to the customers in Ottawa," he said. "That way they have a choice that is still Ontario, and still Canadian, rather than having to get it from California or Georgia."

And far as Warner is concerned, he's in the same pool as any other Ontario grower.

"In Ontario, we have the same labour laws and same restrictions," he said. "It's always better when someone buys our produce."

Changes 'problematic'

But there are still limits to labeling, said Lynda Lukasik, executive director of Environment Hamilton. Under the new act, theoretically, a restaurant in Sudbury would be able to label an item with Hamilton-grown beef as 'local.'

"That's problematic," Lukasik said. "But I have no problem with [a label] 'Ontario-grown'."

Even though new business owners are often cash-strapped, Pearson said she'd choose whatever produce is grown closest to Hamilton, regardless of cost and the 'local' definition.

"As a producer, we have a responsibility to support the farmers in the area," she said.

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